Tea Strong, Emotion Stronger: The Tea Customs of Chaoshan People and the Etiquette of Gongfu Tea

Part 1: Not a Day Without Tea: Tea in the Lifeblood of Chaoshan Culture

For the Chaoshan people, tea is not just a beverage; it is the air, the life, the cultural DNA flowing in their veins.

• More Tea Shops Than Rice Shops: In the Chaoshan region, the density of tea shops is astonishing. Every household owns a tea set. Regardless of wealth, a good cup of tea is an essential courtesy for receiving guests.
• Tea for Guests, a Warm Welcome: "Ū yǒi lâi jiáh dê!" ("Come drink tea when you're free!") is the warmest greeting among Chaoshan people. When a guest arrives, regardless of the matter at hand, brewing a round of Gongfu tea is the essential first ritual. This cup of tea is a bridge for communication and the beginning of friendship.
• The Philosophy of "Tea Three, Wine Four": This saying suggests that tea is best enjoyed by two or three people to savor it quietly, while wine is better with four or more for merriment. This reflects the Chaoshan pursuit of precision, tranquility, and deep conversation through tea.

Part 2: Chaoshan Gongfu Tea Etiquette: Grand Etiquette in a Tiny Cup

Chaoshan Gongfu tea is not just a brewing method; it is a complete set of social language and behavioral codes. Its core spirit is "Harmony, Respect, Refinement, and Joy."

1. The Essentials of the Tea Set

• "The Four Treasures": Mengchen Pot (small Yixing teapot), Ruochen Ou (tiny white porcelain cups), Yushu Wei (kettle), and Red Clay Stove (charcoal stove). Although electric kettles are common now, the essence remains: small, refined, and complete.
• Three Cups: No matter how many guests, only three cups are typically placed on the table. This stems from the "Tea Three" philosophy and facilitates turn-taking, promoting equality and sharing.

2. The Ritual of Brewing

• "High Pour, Low Serve": Lift the kettle high to pour water forcefully into the pot, agitating the leaves to release aroma—this is "Gāo Chōng" (High Pour). When serving, place the spout close to the cups and swiftly pour the tea in a circular motion ("Patrolling the City") to fill each cup evenly. Finally, add the last, strongest drops ("Pointing the Troops") from the pot into each cup, ensuring every cup is identical in strength and fairness.

3. The Etiquette of Drinking

• Respect for Seniority, Guests First: For the first round, the host serves the eldest or the most distinguished guest first.
• Finger Kowtow (Kòu Zhǐ Lǐ): When an elder or the host pours tea for you, you should extend your index and middle fingers, slightly curved, and tap them lightly on the table twice to express gratitude and respect. Legend says this originated when Emperor Qianlong poured tea for his attendants incognito; they tapped fingers instead of kneeling to thank him without revealing his identity.
• "Full Wine Honors, Full Tea Insults": Wine is filled to express warmth, but tea is only poured to 70% capacity. Leaving space represents courtesy and friendship, implying "70% for tea, 80% for wine." It also prevents the guest from burning their fingers, showing the host's consideration.
• "The First Wash, the Second Serve": The first infusion is often used to "wash" the leaves, not for drinking. It's used to rinse the cups or discarded. The true tasting begins from the second infusion.
• New Tea for a New Guest: If a new guest arrives during a tea session, the host should immediately brew a fresh pot of tea leaves as a welcome gesture; otherwise, it's considered rude.

In Chaoshan, Gongfu tea has long transcended its role as a drink. It is a family bond, a social lubricant, and a cultural code etched into the bones of the Chaoshan people, reflecting their philosophy of interpersonal conduct. Through this set of precise yet warm rituals, Chaoshan people infuse the spirit of "Harmony and Respect" into every tiny, yet profoundly meaningful, cup of tea.

The next time you savor a cup of authentic Phoenix Dancong, why not try using the etiquette of Chaoshan Gongfu tea to experience this unique Eastern sense of warmth and ritual for yourself?